About Lucca
Lucca is without doubt one of the most beautiful small cities in Tuscany. (The population is approximately 86,000.) Walking or biking around the walls of Lucca is one of the great delights of this ancient city. Trees were planted on the ramparts in the 16th century and the Lucchesi take leafy after dinner strolls along the walls. The 16th and 17th century ramparts are Lucca's most stunning feature and permit charming views of the city interior -- and quick peeks into houses and apartments -- and beyond, the Apuan Alps.
The city retains most of its ancient Roman street plan and is rich in Romanesque churches. Caesar met here with Pompey and Crassus to form the First Triumvirate, although Lucca was founded by the Etruscans. There is also evidence that it was inhabited as long as 50,000 years ago by Ligurians. (Lucca is derived from a Ligurian word for "swamp." ) It only became a Roman colony in 180 A.D.
Puccini was born in Lucca and his childhood home can be visited as can his own house in Torre del Lago. Puccini is everywhere in Lucca. His favourite coffee shop, where he and local intellectuals met, is still doing business on Via Fillungo. Boccherini was also born in Lucca. Summer is Lucca's music season, and in addition to the many free indoor and outdoor concerts, there is a Puccini festival in August at Torre del Lago where operas are performed out-of-doors with the lake as a backdrop. The Teatro del Giglio is a charming oval where many plays, concerts and operas are performed. There are also jazz and pop music concerts in the Piazza Grande during July.
Both walking and bike riding are the best ways to see Lucca since it is now a largely pedestrian city. There is always a street cafe nearby for an espresso, an ice cream, or a cold drink and a rest. There are weekly street markets and an antiques market the third Saturday/Sunday of each month and at other times in nearby towns: the market fills squares and streets and is a must-see for those lucky enough to be in the area at the time. Outstanding amongst the abundance of churches is Il Duomo. It contains the touching and beautiful funeral monument of Ilaria del Caretto by Jacopo della Quercia (1408). Tintoretto's "Last Supper" is also in the Duomo.
The churches of San Michele and San Freddiano should not be missed.
Lucca is filled with small specialty shops with friendly, helpful and honest shopkeepers. Nothing is too much trouble. There are many delicatessens, bakeries and pastry shops to tempt, along with leather goods, clothes, perfume shops, household necessities and luxuries. There are, of course, many supermarkets on the outskirts.
There are local sagras (festas) everywhere during the summer and the nearest one to Il Mulinetto di Torre and Casa della Volpe offers free food and wine. It takes place at the end of July. At others, a modest sum is charged for the theme dish of each sagra. Not many tourists attend these so they are a friendly look into the Italian way of life.
|
Click any picture to see a larger version
Celli dei Puccini
Lucca
San Nicolao, the church at Torre Alto
|
